And Why Our Weekend in Laino Borgo Renewed Our Appreciation for Home
Living in Calabria is a privilege we sometimes forget we have. Like anyone who becomes accustomed to their surroundings, it’s easy to slip into routine, to overlook the extraordinary beauty that lies just beyond the familiar paths of everyday life. Calabria becomes the backdrop to school runs, workdays, errands, and appointments. But every so often, something reminds us—powerfully—why this land is different, why it is special, why it deserves to be spoken of with more pride and far less prejudice.
Because if there’s one thing that frustrates those of us who live here, it’s the way Calabria is so often misrepresented or dismissed. Outsiders reduce it to clichés, or worse, to negative headlines that ignore the region’s immense natural, cultural, and human richness. Those of us who call Calabria home know better. And every time we take the time to explore it deeply, our affection grows even stronger.
Our recent weekend in Laino Borgo, nestled in the province of Cosenza in the heart of the Pollino National Park, did exactly that. It rekindled our sense of wonder, renewed our appreciation, and reminded us why Calabria deserves to be celebrated—not despite its complexity, but because of it.
This is the story of that weekend—a celebration of a land we love, a land we live in, and a land we believe the world should see with clearer, kinder eyes.
Laino Borgo: Rediscovering Calabria Through Fresh Eyes
When you live in Calabria, you know that nature is never far away. But there is something extraordinary about entering the Parco Nazionale del Pollino, Italy’s largest protected natural area. The air seems different—crisper, freer, filled with that untamed spirit that defines the region’s interior.
Laino Borgo welcomed us with its characteristic quiet charm. It isn’t a flashy place; it doesn’t try to impress with grand gestures. Instead, it feels genuine. It feels grounded. Life moves slowly, shaped by mountain rhythms, by traditions that still matter, and by a connection to the land that runs deep.
As we wandered through the town, we felt that familiar Calabrian authenticity: people greeting each other in the street, the smell of food drifting softly from open windows, the distant silhouette of mountains watching over everything. Living here, we experience these things regularly, yet moments like this remind us not to take them for granted.
We have a few recommendations for you too. Laino Borgo is the perfect base to explore lots of the surrounding National Park – we stayed at the Palia’s hotel (https://paliashotel.it) – a simple mountain hotel that really surprised us. Roberto, the owner is incredibly kind and so passionate about where he lives. He talked to us about the local products used to make the amazing breakfast, about activities in the area and taught us all about the history of town too. Not only this but he was incredible with our children and had made such a huge effort to decorate the hotel for the festive season. Palia’s hotel is warm, welcoming and an excellent base for your Pollino adventures. Roberto is so well connected with all of the locals and can advise you on any activity you’d like to do in the local area, from rafting to hiking, adventure parks to cycling, exploring local borghi or farm activities. We really couldn’t have chosen a better place to stay.
Laino Castello Vecchio: A Village That Refused to Disappear
One of the most moving parts of our trip was visiting Laino Castello Vecchio, the ancient village perched on a hill above Laino Borgo. For those of us living in Calabria, abandoned villages are not an uncommon sight. Earthquakes, economic hardship, and depopulation have shaped many landscapes in the south.
But Laino Castello Vecchio is different.
Years ago, an earthquake forced residents to flee. For decades, the village remained silent—a ghost of its former self, with crumbling houses, stone archways exposed to the sky, and paths worn by centuries of footsteps now overtaken by nature.
Yet today, something extraordinary is happening.
The people of Laino Castello have returned—not to resurrect the past exactly as it was, but to transform it into something new, something hopeful. Those abandoned houses have become artisanal shops and small creative spaces. Craftspeople and artists now inhabit the old structures, filling them with life, skill, and community.
Walking through the village, we could feel a quiet determination woven into the stones. And standing before the newly refurbished church, restored with love and respect, it became clear that this was more than a renovation project—it was a declaration of identity. A reminder that Calabria’s history doesn’t disappear simply because time changes its course.
Living here, we often hear stories of decline. But Laino Castello Vecchio is a story of revival, resilience, and pride. And it is one of the reasons we fell in love with this region all over again.
Rifugio Fasanelli: Snow, Silence, and the Majesty of the Pollino
From the village, we drove deeper into the Pollino mountains toward Rifugio Fasanelli, one of the refuges that serves as a gateway to some of the park’s most breathtaking trails. Even as locals, accustomed to Calabria’s dramatic landscapes, we were stunned.
Snow blanketed the forest in a gentle hush, transforming the mountains into a wonderland. We played in the snow like children, laughing and tumbling, surrounded by towering trees and crisp, pure air. Every direction revealed another breathtaking view—peaks carved by time, slopes rolling in perfect curves, the horizon painted with winter light.
Inside the refuge, warmth enveloped us immediately: wooden beams, a crackling fire, the comforting smell of hearty food cooking in the kitchen. It reminded us of the best parts of mountain life—the kind that strips everything back to simplicity and togetherness.
The meal we shared at Fasanelli was the kind of food that defines Calabria: rustic, generous, flavorful, and deeply connected to the land. Dishes that tell stories of shepherds, farmers, and families; food that warms you after hours in the cold; recipes shaped by centuries of mountain tradition.
Living in Calabria, we know good food well. But experiencing it in such a setting—snow outside, fire inside, laughter around the table—made it feel especially magical.
Loving Calabria Means Seeing Her Clearly
Because we live here, we are aware of how Calabria is talked about—how easily misconceptions can overshadow its richness. And yet, all it takes is a weekend like this one to realize how unfair those misconceptions are.
Calabria is:
- Wildly beautiful, with landscapes untouched by mass tourism.
- Deeply authentic, offering experiences rooted in tradition, not performance.
- Historically profound, filled with ancient villages, myths, and stories.
- Culturally vibrant, shaped by artisans, local festivals, and strong community ties.
- Gastronomically rich, with a cuisine that reflects resilience, creativity, and soul.
Prejudice melts away the moment you immerse yourself in places like Laino Borgo, Laino Castello Vecchio, or the Pollino National Park and many other places in this incredibly versatile region. And living here, we feel an even greater responsibility—and privilege—to advocate for this region, to share its beauty, and to encourage others to see Calabria with fresh eyes.
A Message From Those Who Call Calabria Home
This trip didn’t just give us a beautiful weekend. It reminded us why we chose to live here. Calabria isn’t perfect—no place is—but it is real, raw, welcoming, and extraordinary in ways that defy easy description.
So this is an invitation from locals:
Come. Explore. Experience this land without the filter of old stereotypes. Let the mountains of the Pollino take your breath away. Wander through revived villages like Laino Castello Vecchio. Talk to the people, who will always greet you with warmth. Taste the food, which is a celebration in itself.
Allow Calabria to surprise you, as she surprises us—again and again—even after years of calling her home.
Because when you take the time to truly see this region, you discover that Calabria isn’t simply a place to visit.
It’s a place to feel.
It’s a place to love.
And for us, it’s the place we are proud to call home.
If you want to learn more about Calabria, follow along for more posts about this wonderful place, advice on where to stay, where to eat and what to see.
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